So I went surfing again this Memorial Day and this was my best set ever. I still suck of course (I fall more than I stand up) but there were a couple of good rides in there. I relate surfing to golf in a lot of ways. It takes a lot of patience and persistence and can be very frustrating, but it only takes one good ride to make it all worth it. Plus, in order to be any good, you have to keep doing it.
Yesterday, I had two good rides that really showed me that I was making progress. The first one was on a bigger wave and although I crashed right away, my timing was just where it needed to be. I actually dropped into the wave and it was because I wasn’t used to timing it just right, that the board shot out under me. Why would a crash be such a good ride? It was because I knew what I was doing wrong and I now had a feeling of what its like to drop into a wave.
The next ride was the same thing although this time I learned from my previous mistake and stayed up. That was the one “great tee shot” that makes me want to go back.